Repair Over Replace - CactusLab

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CANVX

Our canvas fabric family. Built to outlast everything you put it through. Thick, tight-woven, and treated to be water-resistant. Our 52% Polyester, 48% cotton blend -cotton for strength and feel, polyester for durability and faster drying. Two versions, same base cloth, different finish.

CanvX ULTRA

Heavier coating, built for the hardest use. This is what goes into Trade trousers, HD Dreadnoughts and our equipment. Minimum 4,000mm hydrostatic head. Minimum 1,800N breaking force.

The toughest version

CanvX Premium

Lighter coating makes it more pliable and comfortable as outerwear. Same base cloth, same waterproof rating on paper - in practice it measures around 8,000mm. Goes into our jackets and Supertrousers.

SAME Strength, more wearable

WATERPROOFS

Not all waterproof fabric is the same. Every jacket in our range uses a different construction depending on what it needs to do - how much weight it can carry, how breathable it needs to be, and how hard it'll be pushed.

3-Layer

Across our 3-layer range we run two fabric weights - a lighter 180gsm for high-output, high-movement use where breathability matters most, and a heavier 250gsm where maximum weather protection is the job. Same construction principle, different balance of performance
100% Nylon
180-250gsm
20,000mm-30,0000mm Waterproof
4,500g-11,000g/m²/24hr breathability

2-LAYER

A membrane bonded to an outer fabric. Lightest and most packable construction - best when low weight and small pack size matter most.
100% Nylon
210gsm
10,000mm Waterproof
16,600g/m²/24hr breathability

How do we test this?

The Hydrostatic Head (HH) test pushes a column of water against the fabric until it leaks. The height of that column in millimetres is the rating.

Breathability is measured by Moisture Vapour Transfer Rate (MVTR) - grams of moisture that pass through a square metre of fabric in 24 hours. Higher is better.

DWR & PFAS - an honest note.

DWR is the treatment that makes water bead and roll off fabric. The most effective versions use PFAS - chemicals that don't break down in the environment. We're testing alternatives, but none yet meet our standards for durability and longevity. We'll move when we find something that genuinely works.

INSULATION

Warmth comes down to trapped air. Whether it's down clusters or synthetic fibres, the job is the same - create small pockets of air that hold your body heat close. The difference is in how well each material does that, and in what conditions.

DOWN

We use 750 fill-power goose down, 90% down to 10% feather. Fill power measures how much space 1oz of down takes up - higher means more loft, more trapped air, more warmth for less weight. Goose down clusters are larger than duck, which means better loft and better recovery after compression. The fill weight (how much down is actually in the jacket) is our own secret formula.
750 Fill Power
90% Down / 10% Feather
Goose, not duck
RDS Certified

SYNTHETIC

Synthetic insulation mimics the structure of down - trapping air to hold heat - but uses man-made fibres instead. It won't match down for warmth-to-weight, but it keeps insulating even when wet and dries fast. It's also more forgiving to store - down compresses well but can be damaged by long-term compression, where synthetic holds its loft and stays durable over time. A better option for anyone who wants an animal-free alternative too.

DOWN VS SYNTHETIC

Down wins on warmth-to-weight and compressibility. It lasts for decades with proper care. The catch: when it gets wet, it loses its loft and takes a long time to dry. Synthetic insulation keeps working when wet, dries fast, and doesn't need careful handling - but it's heavier for the same warmth, and loses performance over time. Our down jackets use hydrophobic-treated down to reduce (not eliminate) the wet-weather weakness.

MERINO

Merino wool regulates temperature, wicks moisture and resists odour - all at once. It's not the toughest fibre, so we blend it where needed, but for base layers and mid-layers, nothing else comes close.

Base Layer

Temperature regulation, moisture wicking and odour resistance. We add nylon for durability and elastane so it moves with you.

Mid-Layer

Heavier weight for real insulation, knitted in a way that holds its shape and doesn't stretch out over time. Built to layer, built to last.

Not CanvX

Not everything needs canvas. Across our trousers and equipment we use fabrics chosen for what each product actually demands - stretch, structure, strength, or all three.

CNC

It's technically a canvas weave, just not as heavy-duty as CanvX. Great hand-feel — comfortable enough to wear all day, tough enough to back it up. Colour stable, strong, and sits at a lighter weight than our canvas range.
65% polyester / 35% cotton
325gsm
Abrasion resistance: 20,000 rubs
1,800N warp / 1,125N weft

SOS

A twill weave with mechanical stretch - so it has some give without needing elastane. Lighter than CNC, good colour retention and surprisingly strong for its weight.
60% polyester / 40% cotton
260gsm
Twill 2/1s
Abrasion resistance: 20,000 rubs

Denim

94% cotton, 6% Dyneema - a synthetic fibre that's 15x stronger than steel at the same weight. Dark wash only, and it fades slowly to a classic light blue over a long time. Denim, but significantly harder to wear out.
94% cotton / 6% Dyneema
483gsm
Dark wash

C-Fabrics — what goes into our packs and gear

Our pack fabrics are nylon or polyester oxford weaves, polyurethane coated for water resistance. We grade them by denier - a measure of yarn thickness. Higher denier means thicker, heavier, more durable fabric. We use four weights depending on where in the bag the fabric sits and how much punishment that part takes.
C-210 — 100% nylon, 210D, binding seams
C-300 — 100% polyester, 300D, light reinforcement
C-500 — 100% nylon air textured, 500D, internal reinforcement
C-1000 — 100% nylon air textured, 1000D, bag outers

Built to last. Made to be understood.

Every material we use is chosen because it's the best option for the job - not the cheapest, not the easiest. If you have questions about what's in a specific product, ask us.